Basilicata Techniques

Lamb cooked in an earthenware pot (cutturieddhu) — the ancient Lucano technique of sealing a whole lamb or lamb pieces with vegetables, herbs and water in a terracotta vessel and cooking over embers or in a stone oven until the lamb is falling from the bone. The seal of the pot traps all steam and the lamb cooks in its own juices and fat, creating an intensely flavoured braising liquid that is itself the sauce.

Basilicata's lamb braised with crispy dried sweet peppers (peperoni cruschi) — the region's defining flavour element. Cruschi are dried Senise peppers (IGP) that retain their intense sweet-paprika character; when fried in olive oil they become shatteringly crisp. Added to the lamb braise at two points: some into the sauce for flavour dissolution, and a handful of freshly fried crispy ones as a garnish at service. The result combines the savoury braised lamb with the sweet pepper, the crisp texture contrast, and a hint of chilli heat from the dried peel.

Baccalà alla lucana is the salt cod preparation of the Basilicata interior — a landlocked region where baccalà (salt-dried cod) was historically the only fish available. The Lucano preparation combines rehydrated baccalà with sweet and hot dried peppers (the Senise peperoni cruschi are ideal), preserved tomato (estratto di pomodoro, the concentrated Lucano sun-dried tomato paste), black olives, and capers in a single pan braise. The dried peppers reconstituted in warm water provide a sweet, slightly smoky note that is the Basilicata fingerprint in this preparation. It is a cucina povera masterpiece — the preserved ingredients of the Lucano pantry combined into a preparation of considerable complexity.

A quintessential Lucana preparation that bridges the region's two iconic ingredients: salt cod (baccalà) desalted over 48 hours, and peperoni cruschi — the dried, fried sweet peppers unique to Basilicata and Calabria. The baccalà pieces are dredged lightly in flour and browned in olive oil, then removed. In the same pan, thinly sliced onion is softened, diced waxy potatoes are added and partially cooked, followed by crushed San Marzano tomatoes, torn peperoni cruschi (briefly fried separately to maintain their crunch) and the browned baccalà. The stew braises covered for 20 minutes until the potatoes are fully tender and the baccalà has absorbed the paprika sweetness of the cruschi. Finished with chopped flat-leaf parsley and raw olive oil.

One of Basilicata's most elemental preparations: a wheel or thick slice of Caciocavallo Podolico DOP — aged a minimum of six months, up to several years — placed directly on a wire grate over glowing oak or olive-wood embers. As the exterior caramelises and chars, the interior becomes molten. The cheese is transferred rapidly to a wooden board and served immediately with a drizzle of Sulla honey (from sulla clover, a Lucana speciality) and grilled country bread. The transformation from firm-aged cheese to flowing, stretchy interior happens in under four minutes over very hot coals; timing is everything.

The premium expression of southern Italy's great stretched-curd cheese tradition: Caciocavallo Podolico made from the milk of semi-wild Podolica cattle (an ancient Balkan-origin breed grazed on the aromatic wild herbs of the Lucanian Apennines). Aged 12-24 months in cool cellars, it develops an amber-brown, gnarled rind and a firm, slightly crumbly paste with a complex, almost blue-cheese-like aroma from the extraordinary milk. The Vulture volcanic area produces the finest specimens. Hung in pairs (hence 'horse cheese') on wooden beams during maturation.

Calzone lucano (the Basilicatan variation, distinct from the Neapolitan baked version) is a fried half-moon of thin dough filled with a combination of bitter and preserved vegetables: sautéed wild cicoria (chicory), black olives, capers, anchovies, and peperoncino, sealed and fried in olive oil until puffed and golden. It is the enclosure of the Lucan countryside in pastry — bitter, salty, slightly hot, acidic from the capers, all contained in a crisp fried dough. It is the street food and antipasto of the Lucan market tradition.

Basilicata's fresh pasta pressed over the fingers to create an elongated, curved shell — capunti are made by pressing a small piece of semolina pasta dough against three extended fingers and rolling to form a hollowed, slightly ridged boat shape. Dressed with a quick tomato sauce and Pecorino Canestrato di Moliterno DOP — a basket-pressed aged sheep's milk cheese that is sharper and saltier than standard Pecorino, providing a punchy counterbalance to the sweet tomato.

Cavatelli are small, dimpled pasta shells — rolled from a simple semolina-and-water dough and shaped by dragging a small piece of dough across a board with two or three fingers to create a shell with a concave interior. They are the everyday pasta of Molise, Basilicata, and Campania, served with the local ragù: a slow braise of mixed pork (ribs, sausage) and lamb with tomato, pecorino, and local herbs. The dimple in the cavatello is functional — it holds the dense ragù inside. The combination of the rough semolina texture and the fatty, long-cooked ragù is one of the most satisfying pairings in southern Italian cooking.

A mixed pasta preparation traditional at Lucano weddings and feasts — combining hand-rolled cavatelli (pressed with two fingers across a ridged board) with 'ndunderi di ricotta (large ricotta-and-semolina gnocchi descended from Roman garum-era recipes), served together in a simple tomato and basil sauce or braised lamb ragù. The combination of two handmade pasta formats in one dish is uniquely Lucano.

Basilicata's iconic summer vegetable stew — related to but distinct from Neapolitan ciambotta — celebrates the region's intensely flavoured hill-grown produce. Diced aubergine is salted and pressed, then fried separately in abundant olive oil until golden. Peppers (both sweet and friarelli), courgettes, potatoes and ripe tomatoes are cooked in sequence in the same pan: potatoes first, then peppers, then courgettes, each partially cooked before the next addition. The aubergine and crushed tomatoes join last, along with fresh basil and dried peperoncino. The stew braises covered over low heat until unified — approximately 40 minutes — developing a thick, jammy sauce. Served at room temperature, never hot.

Basilicata's ancient vegetable stew — the spring and early summer combination of young broad beans, artichokes, potatoes, spring onions, wild asparagus, and pancetta, braised slowly in olive oil and white wine until soft and unified. Named from the Latin 'calda' (warm stew), it represents the Lucanian tradition of cooking seasonal spring vegetables together in a single pot, with the lard or pancetta providing the only animal protein. Eaten as a main course with crusty Matera bread.

A spring vegetable stew unique to Basilicata: fresh fava beans, young artichokes, spring onions, and pancetta or guanciale braised together in olive oil with a ladleful of water, no stock. The vegetables braise in their own moisture until silky and the olive oil creates a natural emulsion with the vegetable liquid. It is a technique of radical simplicity — the quality of the ingredients is the entire dish.

The Lucana version of the ancient pairing of wild chicory and dried broad beans (fave e cicoria) — found across southern Italy but with distinct regional character here. Split dried fave are soaked overnight and boiled until they collapse into a thick, rough purée with no water remaining. Wild chicory (or cultivated catalogna) is blanched in heavily salted boiling water then plunged into ice water to set its colour and remove excess bitterness. The greens are then ripassata — briefly tossed in a pan with olive oil, crushed garlic and dried peperoncino over high heat. The fave purée is spooned into the base of a warmed bowl; the ripassata cicoria is mounded on top; the whole is flooded with newly pressed Lucana olive oil (olio nuovo) with its characteristic peppery finish. Served with toasted cracked-wheat bread.

Cutturidd (sometimes written cotturiello) is the defining lamb preparation of the Basilicatan shepherd tradition: pieces of young lamb (or older mutton in the traditional version) braised slowly in a clay pot with wild herbs — oregano, bay, rosemary — and white wine, without tomato (predating the tomato's widespread adoption in southern Italian cooking) or strong spicing. The technique is minimal: the herbs and the quality of the lamb are everything. The result is a pale-golden stew with a clear, herb-scented broth and tender, falling-from-the-bone lamb. It is the antithesis of the strongly spiced preparations of Calabria — Basilicata's cooking is quieter, more reliant on ingredient quality.

Hand-twisted fusilli (homemade, not extruded) tossed with a slow-cooked lamb ragù from Basilicata — one of the region's most celebrated dishes. The lamb (shoulder, bone-in) is browned then braised with San Marzano tomatoes, guanciale, onion, and chilli for 2–3 hours until completely tender. The meat is pulled from the bone and returned to the sauce. Homemade fusilli are rolled around a thin iron rod (ferretto) to create a long, coiled shape with a hollow centre that captures the sauce. The combination of hand-made pasta and long-braised lamb is the definitive Basilicata Sunday dish.

One of Italy's most ancient pasta preparations — lagane (wide, flat, rough-cut pasta ribbons) combined with chickpeas in a simple soffritto of garlic, rosemary, and olive oil. Lagane e ceci is considered by many culinary historians to be the direct ancestor of all Italian pasta preparations. In Basilicata the lagane are made with semola and water, cut irregularly into wide ribbons, and cooked directly in the chickpea broth until the pasta has absorbed some of the chickpea cooking liquid. No tomato, no cheese — the simplicity is the historical statement.

One of Italy's oldest pasta dishes — lagane are wide, flat pasta ribbons (the direct ancestor of lasagne, cited by Horace and Apicius) cooked together with chickpeas in a seasoned broth. A peasant dish of the Lucanian hill towns, eaten since antiquity. The lagane are cut thick and wide (4-5cm) from a simple semola-and-water dough, cooked directly in the chickpea broth, and finished with extra-virgin olive oil, dried chilli, and garlic — no cheese. The chickpeas provide both the broth and the protein.

Lagane e cicciari (chickpeas) is one of the most ancient pasta preparations in Italy — lagane are the direct descendant of the Roman laganum, one of the first pasta-like preparations mentioned in Latin sources. In Basilicata, lagane are wide, flat, irregular pasta strips made from flour and water (no egg — a pre-egg-pasta tradition), cooked directly in the chickpea cooking liquid and dressed with the chickpeas, olive oil, garlic, and dried chilli. The pasta and chickpeas are inseparable — the starchy cooking liquid becomes the sauce. It is the antipasto, primo, and secondo of the Lucanian poor table combined into a single bowl.

A spiced fresh pork sausage from the Picerno area of Basilicata — ground pork shoulder, fat, wild fennel seed, peperoncino, garlic and red wine stuffed into natural casings. It is among Italy's oldest documented sausages (the Roman 'lucanica' mentioned by Apicius and Cicero is believed to have originated from Basilicata). Grilled over charcoal or fried in a pan, it is eaten as a secondo or crumbled into sauces.

Lucanica (or Lucanicae) is perhaps the oldest named sausage in Western food literature: documented by Roman writers Marcus Terentius Varro and Apicius as a Lucanian (Basilicatan) invention brought to Rome by Lucanian slaves. The sausage that has carried this name for 2,000 years is a coarsely ground pork sausage seasoned with black pepper, fennel seeds, and dried peperoncino, stuffed in natural casings and either cured (for slicing) or used fresh (for grilling or frying). It is the direct ancestor of the Calabrian and Campanian luganega.

Basilicata's wild snail preparation with lard and rosemary — a mountain dish where land snails (lumaconi or Helix pomatia) are purged, briefly poached, then braised in rendered lard with rosemary, garlic, and a splash of wine. The dish is rustic and deeply flavoured — the lard's richness contrasts with the earthy, slightly mineral snail, and the rosemary provides the dominant aromatic. Served with bread to mop up the sauce. A preparation that disappears further from towns; still found in rural Basilicata farmhouses.

Maccheroni al ferretto (also called fusilli al ferretto) are the handmade spiral pasta of Basilicata and Calabria, shaped by rolling pasta dough around a thin metal rod (ferretto — a knitting needle or thin iron wire) and then sliding it off to leave a long, hollow spiral. In Basilicata, the canonical pairing is ragù di castrato (mutton or lamb ragù), slow-braised for 3-4 hours with tomato, wine, and peperoncino — the pasta's hollow provides the cavity in which the ragù lodges. The combination of the semolina spiral and the dense Lucan lamb ragù is one of the most complete pasta preparations of the southern Apennine tradition.

Handmade rod-rolled pasta from Basilicata — maccheroni al ferretto (rolled on the same iron rod as Calabrian fusilli, but shorter and thicker) — tossed with rendered guanciale and sweet green peppers (cruschi-style, but fresh) cooked in the guanciale fat. This is a non-tomato pasta that showcases Basilicata's dependence on pork fat and peppers as the primary sauce components. The guanciale renders its fat, the green pepper sweetness absorbs into the fat, and the pasta is tossed with this minimal, deeply flavoured combination.

Maiale al forno con la melanzana is the summer pork bake of Basilicata — pork shoulder or ribs baked in a wide terracotta dish with sliced aubergine, dried peperoncino, dried oregano, and olive oil. The aubergine absorbs the pork fat during roasting and becomes silky and slightly caramelised; the pork renders and becomes crispy on the outside; the peperoncino flavours the fat throughout the dish. It is a preparation of great simplicity — four main ingredients, a hot oven, and time — but the result is deeply satisfying. The combination of pork and aubergine is specifically southern Italian and is found in Basilicata, Calabria, and Sicily.

Autumn soup from Basilicata's mountains combining dried chestnuts and dried chickpeas — two preserved foods that defined Lucanian mountain winters for centuries. The chestnuts are soaked overnight, then cooked together with the chickpeas (also pre-soaked) in water with rosemary, garlic, and bay. Both become tender and merge their starchy sweetness into a thick, porridge-like broth. Finished with raw olive oil and crumbled peperoncino. This soup is the Lucanian mountain equivalent of fave e cicoria — a complete, ancient, simple meal.

Castelluccio di Norcia lentils are grown just across the Lucana-Umbrian border and are deeply embedded in Basilicata's mountain kitchen. Tiny and requiring no soaking, they are cooked in a soffritto of pancetta, onion, carrot and celery rendered in lard, then simmered in water with a blanched and trimmed pork rind (cotenna) for richness. The lentils dissolve partially by the end of the hour-long cook, creating a thick, porridgy broth while the cotenna — cut into strips — provides gelatinous body and savouriness. Finished with raw olive oil, black pepper and torn rustic bread floated on top. A wholly restorative cold-weather preparation from the Lucanian highlands.

The canonical Basilicata antipasto pairing: thick slices of Pane di Matera IGP (toasted or fresh) spread with aged Caciocavallo Podolico and topped with local salumi (Lucanica del Vulture, Soppressata, and dried Peperoni Cruschi crumbled over). A composed antipasto that represents the full Lucanian pantry on a single plank — the wheat bread, the cured pork, the mountain cheese, and the dried pepper all in one unified presentation. Not a recipe so much as an aesthetic and gastronomic statement of Basilicata's produce.

The great sourdough loaf of Matera — a UNESCO city and one of Europe's most ancient continuously inhabited places. Made exclusively from Lucanian semola rimacinata (twice-milled durum wheat) with natural lievito madre, shaped in the characteristic alta mura form (either high-dome round or crescent/hat shape), baked in wood-fired ovens for 60-90 minutes producing a deep mahogany crust and a dense, golden-yellow crumb. The loaf keeps for 7-10 days, historically critical for peasants who baked once a week.

Matera's UNESCO-protected sourdough bread — baked in wood-fired stone ovens and made exclusively from semola rimacinata di grano duro. The defining characteristic is the deeply scored cross on top (representing the blessing of wheat), a thick crust that shatters into amber shards, and a dense, moist yellow crumb that stays fresh for up to a week. Lievito madre (sourdough starter) provides the sole leavening — no commercial yeast is permitted under IGP regulations.

The monumental bread of Matera — a high-hydration sourdough loaf made with Senatore Cappelli durum wheat semolina, shaped into a domed crown (the 'cappello del prete' or baker's cap), baked in a wood-fired stone oven and left to cool for 12 hours before cutting. The crust is thick, dark and crackling; the crumb is dense, yellow-gold and stays fresh for 5–7 days. It is one of the oldest continuously baked breads in Italy.

Pane di Matera IGP is one of the great Italian artisan sourdoughs: a large, high-domed loaf (1-2kg minimum) made from re-milled Lucano durum semolina wheat (senatore cappelli or related ancient varieties), sourdough starter, and water. The characteristic form is the 'cornetto' (horned) shape — a tall, domed oval with two small 'horns' pinched on top. The crust is thick, dark golden, and crackling; the crumb is open, yellow-ivory from the durum, dense but not compact, with a pronounced sour note from the long fermentation. It keeps for 5-7 days without staleness.

A hearty Basilicata bean-and-pasta soup built on pork rind (cotiche) slow-braised until gelatinous, creating a broth of extraordinary body. Dried borlotti beans are soaked overnight, then cooked with soffritto of lard-rendered onion, celery and carrot. The cotiche are blanched, scraped, rolled tight and tied, then added to the bean pot to braise for two hours until they surrender their collagen into the liquid. Short pasta — tubetti or ditali — is cooked directly in the broth for the final ten minutes, absorbing the bean-and-pork essence. Finished with raw olive oil and aggressive black pepper; no cheese.

A dense, starchy one-pot dish — pasta cooked directly in a potato broth with lard, onion, celery and carrot until the starch thickens everything to a porridge-like consistency, then finished with smoked provola that melts into golden threads. While most associated with Campania, the Basilicata version uses local lard and Lucana provola for a smokier, more rustic character. The dish should be 'azzeccata' — sticky enough to mound.

Basilicata's roasted pepper preparation — sweet Senise peppers, red onions, garlic, and anchovies slow-roasted in olive oil until the peppers become silky, jammy, and concentrated, with the anchovies dissolving into the oil and providing a savoury depth that seems sourceless. The preparation is a study in slow transformation: raw peppers become soft and sweet over 40 minutes of oven heat, while the anchovies provide a savouriness that makes the dish taste richer than its components suggest.

The peperone crusco is the signature ingredient of Basilicata: a mild, sweet dried red pepper (Capsicum annuum variety 'Senise', DOP) that is fried briefly in hot olive oil until it puffs and crisps to a brittle, deep-red chip. The frying takes only 20-30 seconds — the high sugar content caramelises immediately. The crusco is used three ways: as a crispy garnish scattered over pasta or dishes; ground into a powder as the primary seasoning in Basilicata cooking (replacing chilli in most preparations); or used as a flavouring oil (the frying oil, now infused with the pepper's sweetness and colour, is used as a sauce base).

The fundamental preparation of Basilicata's defining ingredient: Peperone di Senise IGP (the dried sweet red pepper of Senise) fried briefly in abundant olive oil until it puffs, crisps, and turns from dark red to brilliant orange in seconds — becoming paper-thin, crackling, and sweeter with every molecule of water removed. Called 'the red gold of Basilicata', the crusco (crunchy) pepper is a condiment, a garnish, and a standalone snack. It flavours pasta (con i cruschi), eggs, beans, and baccalà. The frying takes 20-30 seconds maximum.

Bell peppers — ideally the sweet, thick-walled local Lucana variety or red Corno di Toro — are halved lengthwise and deseeded. The filling is a parboiled rice (70% cooked) combined with sautéed onion, diced provola affumicata (smoked stretched-curd cheese), torn stale bread soaked and squeezed, chopped pitted black olives, capers, torn basil and ripe diced tomato. The cavities are filled generously and drizzled with olive oil before the halved peppers are baked uncovered in a hot oven (200°C) for 35–40 minutes. The rice finishes cooking inside the pepper, absorbing the pepper's liquor; the provola melts throughout; the pepper edges char slightly.

Air-dried sweet Senise peppers (Peperone di Senise IGP) fried briefly in hot olive oil until they crisp instantly into delicate, papery crackers with a concentrated sweet-pepper flavour. Served alongside fresh ricotta di bufala or sheep's ricotta as a textural and flavour contrast. The peperoni cruschi are one of the most singular ingredients in Italian cuisine — their flavour is intensely sweet, slightly smoky and unlike any other pepper preparation.

Basilicata's unique dried Senise pepper (Peperone di Senise IGP), sun-dried whole until papery and light, then flash-fried in olive oil for 30–60 seconds until it becomes spectacularly crisp, amber, and sweet. The transformation is remarkable — a tough dried chilli becomes an ethereally light, bittersweet, deeply flavoured crisp. Used as a condiment, a snack, crumbled over pasta, or stirred into dishes as a flavouring. The defining ingredient of Basilicata's cuisine.

Peperoni cruschi (crusco = crispy in the Lucan dialect) are the extraordinary dried sweet peppers of Senise (Potenza province) — a protected IGP product. The peppers (a specific variety, lungo di Senise, grown only in the Agri and Sinni river valleys) are harvested in late summer, strung into long garlands (serte), and air-dried for several weeks until completely desiccated. They are then fried briefly in hot olive oil (5-7 seconds per side) until they become glass-crisp, then crumbled over pasta as a substitute for breadcrumbs — providing a sweet, concentrated pepper flavour and crunch simultaneously. The pasta preparation is simple: spaghetti or short pasta dressed only with the fried peperoni cruschi crumbled over, olive oil, garlic, and sometimes salted ricotta.

Basilicata's humble sausage — made from pork offcuts (pezzenti means 'the poor ones') — snout, cheek, heart, and cheaper cuts — coarsely ground with dried Senise chilli, fennel seeds, and lard. Air-dried for 10–12 days until firm but not hard. Traditionally eaten simmered with dried chickpeas (ceci) in a one-pot preparation — the sausage fat renders into the chickpea broth, producing a preparation that is greater than the sum of its humble parts. The sausage's offal character and the chilli heat are exactly what the chickpeas need.

Basilicata's slow-cooked clay-pot legume preparation: a mix of dried legumes (cicerchia, ceci, fagioli borlotti, fave) layered with lard, dried peperoncino, garlic, and wild herbs in a traditional pignata (an unglazed terracotta cooking vessel), sealed with a bread-dough lid or foil, and buried in the cooling ashes of a wood fire or baked overnight in a very low oven (110-120°C) for 8-12 hours. The sealed clay vessel creates a pressure-free but steam-saturated environment that slowly dissolves all the legumes to a unified, creamy mass of extraordinary depth.

La pignata is both the terracotta vessel and the preparation made in it — a sealed terracotta pot in which pork pieces (belly, ribs, shoulder trimmings), lard, tomato, celery, onion, peperoncino, and local herbs are placed and the vessel sealed with a lard-and-flour paste, then set in the ashes of the fogolar (or in the oven at low temperature) for 4-6 hours without opening. The sealed cooking creates a gentle, pressurised environment in which the pork braises in its own steam; when the seal is broken at table, the fragrance is extraordinary — concentrated, rich, and slightly smoky from the terracotta. The pignata is a festival and Christmas preparation.

An ancient Lucano preparation cooked in a pignata — a terracotta round-bottomed pot sealed with foil or a flour-and-water paste. Mutton shoulder or bone-in leg, slowly cooked for 4–5 hours buried in the embers or in a low oven, with potatoes, wild fennel, bay, dried chilli, and a cup of Aglianico wine. The sealed vessel traps all moisture and volatile aromatics, creating an intensely flavoured, unctuous braise that tastes of mountain pasture.

Pignata (named after the traditional clay cooking vessel) is the Basilicatan one-pot preparation: lamb or pork pieces braised with a complete soffritto of vegetables (onion, celery, carrot, garlic), potatoes, tomato, peperoni, and local herbs in a sealed clay pot, cooked for 3-4 hours in a wood-fired oven (or modern oven) at a very low temperature. The sealed clay pot creates a pressure-free steam environment — nothing evaporates, everything concentrates. It is the Lucanian equivalent of the Moroccan tagine: slow cooking in a sealed earthenware vessel with a complete meal of protein, vegetables, and starch.

Pitta di patate (or pitone di patate, the name varies by province) is the festive filled potato bread of Basilicata — a large disc of dough made from boiled and riced potatoes mixed with flour and egg, filled generously with a mixture of scarola (escarole), black olives, salted anchovies, capers, and peperoncino, then sealed and baked until golden. The potato dough is distinctive: softer and richer than bread dough, with a slightly sweet, starchy quality that contrasts with the sharp, salty interior filling. It is a preparation found throughout the agri-salato tradition of southern Italy — the potato used as a bread extender and dough enricher, a technique developed during periods of flour shortage.

A thick porridge of chestnut flour cooked in water with a pinch of salt until smooth and dense, served with a generous spoonful of buffalo ricotta and a drizzle of Basilicata wildflower honey. A preparation of the Lucano mountain forests during the chestnut season — October–December — where chestnut flour is ground from freshly dried chestnuts and the porridge is made the same day.

Rafanata is one of the most unusual frittata preparations in Italian cooking — a thick egg frittata strongly flavoured with grated fresh horseradish (rafano selvatico, wild horseradish), which grows throughout the Basilicata and Calabria uplands. The horseradish is grated raw into the egg mixture, producing a frittata with a distinctive sinus-clearing pungency and warmth. The heat of the horseradish softens considerably during cooking but the flavour remains unmistakable. It is a Carnevale preparation in the Matera area — made in the days before Lent, when eggs and strong flavours are traditional. The combination of mild egg and pungent horseradish is the surprise of Lucano cooking.

A Basilicata Carnival dish — a frittata-style preparation made with eggs, grated fresh horseradish (rafano), Pecorino and sometimes ricotta, fried in lard until golden outside and barely set inside. Made only during Carnival in February when fresh horseradish is at its most pungent, the rafanata is polarising — the horseradish heat is deliberately aggressive and not moderated by cooking.