Carnia, · Udine, · Friuli-Venezia · Giulia Techniques

Cjalsòns di Carnia are the most complex stuffed pasta in Italy: half-moon ravioli filled with a mixture of potatoes, raisins, chocolate, cinnamon, smoked ricotta, and sometimes a drop of grappa — a sweet-savoury-spiced filling that is simultaneously jarring and extraordinary. The pasta is served with browned butter and smoked ricotta. The filing reflects the medieval tradition of spiced meat pies in Carnia, and the sweet-savoury combination is a relic of Renaissance court cuisine preserved in the alpine valleys long after it vanished from the plains.

Carnia's extraordinary stuffed pasta — perhaps the most complex filling in the Italian canon: a sweet-savoury-spiced mixture of ricotta, cooked spinach, raisins, pine nuts, candied citrus peel, chocolate, cinnamon, nutmeg, and smoked ricotta affumicata, encased in a simple semola-and-water dough half-moon, boiled and dressed with browned butter, smoked ricotta, and a drizzle of elderflower vinegar. Every village in Carnia has its own version — the filling can include up to 25 ingredients. Named from the Friulian 'cialzòns' (literally 'little trouser'), the pasta's shape resembling old-fashioned breeches.