Fry · Bread Techniques

Fry bread — a round of wheat-flour dough fried in oil or lard until puffed, golden, and crispy — is the most culturally complex food in Native American cuisine. It is simultaneously celebrated (as a symbol of Native identity, as the base of the Indian taco, as the centrepiece of powwows and festivals) and mourned (as a product of forced displacement — the flour, lard, and sugar rations provided by the U.S. government to indigenous peoples confined to reservations where they could no longer hunt, gather, or grow their traditional foods). Fry bread was born from the Long Walk of the Navajo (1864) and from every other forced march and reservation confinement across the American West. The ingredients — commodity flour, commodity lard, commodity sugar — were what the government provided. The technique — frying dough in fat — was what indigenous cooks created from those imposed ingredients. The dish is a document of survival and a reminder of what was lost.

Sopaipilla (*so-pah-PEE-yah*) — a small pillow of fried dough, puffed hollow by steam, served with honey — is the New Mexican dessert bread that ends every New Mexican meal. The dough is similar to fry bread (flour, baking powder, salt, water, sometimes a small amount of lard or shortening) but is rolled thinner and cut into triangles or squares before frying. The thin dough puffs dramatically in the hot oil, creating a hollow interior that is pierced at the table and filled with honey (or honey and butter). The origin is disputed — possibly from the Albuquerque area in the early 19th century, possibly from earlier Spanish colonial baking traditions — but the practice is universal across New Mexico.