Molise Techniques

Taccozze are the rough, irregular diamond-shaped pasta of Molise — cut from an egg-and-flour (or semolina-and-water) dough with a knife in irregular shapes, intentionally uneven, because the roughness grips the bean broth and sauce more effectively than a smooth pasta. They are cooked directly in the bean pot alongside borlotti or cannellini beans, where they absorb the starchy bean broth and the rendered pork fat. The preparation is nearly identical to the Pugliese pasta e fagioli and the Abruzzese version, but the irregular diamond shape of the taccozze is specific to Molise and distinguishes the regional variant.

Taranta is one of the most ancient grain preparations of the Molise interior: a thick porridge-like preparation of multiple grains and legumes (wheat berries, chickpeas, farro, lentils — whatever was available) slow-cooked together with lard, onion, and the local dried peperoncino until each grain has fully hydrated and all the elements have unified into a dense, warm mass. It is the paradigm of the Molisano transhumance food — dried ingredients carried on the journey, combined in a single pot over the fire, and eaten communally. The combination of grains and legumes provides complete protein and sustained energy.

The Biferno river — the longest river in Molise, rising in the Matese mountains and flowing to the Adriatic through the Campobasso province — produces trout (trota fario, brown trout) of excellent quality from its cold, fast mountain water. The Molisani preparation is the classic Italian freshwater trout preparation: whole trout dredged in seasoned flour and pan-fried in olive oil and butter until the skin is crackled and golden, finished with a handful of wild herbs from the river banks (mentuccia, wild sage, rosemary), a squeeze of lemon, and a drizzle of raw olive oil. The simplicity is mandatory — Biferno trout needs nothing that would obscure its clean, cold-water flavour.

Ventricina del Vastese is one of the most distinctive salumi of southern-central Italy: a coarsely ground pork shoulder and belly mixed with generous quantities of dried sweet and hot peperoncino, fennel seeds, and rosemary, packed into the pig's stomach (ventricolo — hence ventricina) or large intestine and cured for 3-6 months. Unlike most salumi which are sliced at table, ventricina is often spread — the fat and soft meat at the centre of the cured form is spreadable and intensely flavoured. It is the salume of the Vastese coast and the Abruzzo interior.

Molise has its own ventricina (not to be confused with the Abruzzo Ventricina del Vastese) — a fresh or lightly cured pork sausage from the Montenero di Bisaccia area, seasoned aggressively with local peperoncino (Molise grows excellent chillies), fennel seeds, and black pepper. Unlike the aged Vastese version, the Molisano ventricina is often sold fresh and cooked — fried, grilled, or used to enrich pasta sauces. It represents the Molisano tradition of fresh sausage-making as the daily pork preparation rather than the long-aged salumi of the northern regions.

Dried chestnuts slow-boiled with lardo, bay leaf and a smoked pork bone until they swell and some split, absorbing the smoky fat into their starchy flesh. The liquid becomes a thick, dark-tinted broth perfumed with bay and lard. Finished with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, this is the mountain survival food of Molise and Abruzzo — a dish made in winter when the mountain villages were cut off from lowland supplies.

Cicerchia (Lathyrus sativus, grass pea) is one of the ancient legumes of the Apennine interior — drought-resistant, yielding on thin soils, and with a flavour richer and more complex than chickpea. In Molise, cicerchia soup is made with the dried legume soaked overnight, then long-simmered with soffritto, a bone (often ham bone or lard rind), peperoncino, and finished with a thread of raw olive oil and stale bread in the bowl. The cicerchia has a distinctive earthiness — darker, more mineral than other legumes — that the Molisani use to advantage in winter soups. The preparation is nearly identical to the Umbrian and Marchigiani versions but Molise uses more peperoncino.

A robust Molisan pork-and-bean soup built on dried borlotti beans slow-cooked with cotiche (pork rind) until the rinds dissolve into a gelatinous, collagen-rich broth. Soffritto of lard, onion and chilli forms the base; beans are soaked overnight and added raw to absorb the pork fat as they cook. Finished with a drizzle of local Molise olive oil.

Molise — Italy's second-smallest and least-known region, tucked between Abruzzo to the north, Campania to the south, and Puglia to the east — has a cooking tradition of radical simplicity rooted in transhumance and seasonal mountain poverty. Zuppa di fagioli e cotiche (bean soup with pork rinds) is one of its defining preparations: dried borlotti or cannellini beans slow-cooked with pork rinds (cotiche), celery, carrot, garlic, and tomato until the beans are completely tender and the cotiche have given all their collagen to the broth. The soup is dense, unctuous, and deeply satisfying — the gelatin from the cotiche gives it a body that stock cannot replicate.

Wild land snails (lumache di terra) gathered from the Molisano countryside in spring and autumn, purged for 3 days, cooked in a tomato, garlic and parsley broth until tender. A preparation of the deep Molisano countryside that requires patience in the preparation of the snails but rewards with a deeply flavoured, mineral-rich broth. Eaten with bread to mop the intensely flavoured cooking juices.

Stinging nettles harvested in spring — gloved hands only — form the base of this Molise mountain soup. Blanched briefly in salted water to neutralise the sting, the nettles are squeezed dry and roughly chopped. A base soffritto of onion and lardo is built, nettles added and tossed in the hot fat for two minutes, then covered with water and brought to a simmer for 20 minutes. Broken short pasta (pasta spezzata — spaghetti or tagliatelle broken by hand into irregular pieces) is cooked directly in the nettle broth. Ricotta salata (salted dried ricotta) is grated over each bowl at the table; a thread of raw olive oil finishes it. The nettles dissolve partially into the broth, colouring it deep green and tasting remarkably of mineral, spinach-adjacent richness.

The rustic spring soup of Molise made from sponsali — the wild spring onions or leek-onion hybrids that emerge in March across the Molisano countryside, sweated long in olive oil until completely collapsed and sweet, then cooked in pork broth with stale bread and a cracked egg dropped in at the end to poach in the hot soup. A dish of extraordinary simplicity that depends entirely on the quality of the sponsali — wild-foraged have a complexity that cultivated leeks cannot approach.