Panettone
Panettone is the great Milanese Christmas bread — and one of the most technically demanding baked goods in the entire Italian repertoire. It is a tall, dome-shaped, butter-enriched bread studded with candied citrus peel and raisins, with a soft, feathery, almost cotton-like interior structured by long strands of developed gluten and enriched with extraordinary quantities of butter and egg yolks. The technique revolves around the lievito madre (mother dough/natural levain) — a stiff sourdough starter that must be maintained through regular refreshments for weeks or months before the panettone season. The production takes 2-3 days: the lievito madre is built up through multiple refreshments over 24 hours, then incorporated into a first dough (primo impasto) with flour, sugar, egg yolks, and butter. This first dough ferments for 10-14 hours. Then a second dough (secondo impasto) adds more flour, sugar, egg yolks, butter, candied fruit, and raisins. After a final mixing, the dough is divided, shaped into balls, placed in tall paper moulds (pirottini), and left to prove for 6-10 hours until the dough has risen to the rim of the mould. The baking is precise: 170-180°C for 50-60 minutes for a 1kg panettone, with the internal temperature reaching 94°C. Immediately after baking, the panettone is inverted and hung upside down on skewers to cool — this prevents the heavy dome from collapsing under its own weight as it cools. The result, when properly made, is a bread of extraordinary lightness despite its richness: the interior pulls apart in long, soft, aromatic strands, and the flavour is of butter, vanilla, citrus, and a subtle tang from the natural levain. Industrial panettone and artisanal panettone are almost different products — the industrial version uses commercial yeast and takes hours instead of days, producing a denser, less complex result.