Amontillado: the two-phase sherry

Overview

Amontillado is fino that has lost its flor — the yeast layer that protected it during biological aging has died (through the wine's natural development or through deliberate fortification to above 16.5% ABV), and the wine has then continued aging oxidatively. The result is a wine that carries both phases: the dried fruit and almond character of fino, and the walnut, caramel, and oak of oxidative aging.

A genuine amontillado is amber, complex, and entirely dry — the sweet 'amontillado' found in supermarkets is a commercial blend with no connection to the real thing. True amontillado from a serious producer is one of the world's great wines.

Key Principles

The biological phase produces the structural complexity; the oxidative phase adds colour, weight, and secondary flavour. Serve at 12-14°C — slightly cooler than white wine service but significantly cooler than room temperature. The wine is bone dry — any sweetness indicates a commercial blend. Food pairings: aged Manchego, cured meats, game consommé, chestnut soup. Amontillado can also be used in cooking — particularly in game and mushroom sauces.

Pro Tips

The VORS category (Very Old Rare Sherry) requires a minimum average age of 30 years — amontillado VORS from producers like Valdespino or González Byass represent centuries-deep craft at extreme quality. Use amontillado in cooking to replace dry sherry — it adds more complexity than standard dry sherry and far more than dry white wine. Pair with aged Iberian ham.

Common Mistakes

Confusing commercial 'medium sherry' with genuine amontillado. Serving too cold — unlike fino, amontillado benefits from slightly warmer service to release its complex tertiary aromas. Not recognising amontillado as a food wine — its complexity makes it one of the most versatile food wines in existence.

Source

The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden