Quenelles: The Poached Mousse
Quenelles — the Lyonnais preparation of fish (pike traditionally), chicken, or veal processed to a mousse with cream and egg, shaped into ovals, and poached — represent the French technique of producing a light, airy, yielding preparation from a protein that is by nature firm and resistant. The technique depends on the precise ratio of protein to cream and the careful temperature control during preparation.
- **The mousseline:** Fish, chicken, or veal processed to a completely smooth paste — no fibres remaining. The paste must be cold throughout the processing (the bowl in ice) to prevent the fat from separating. - **The cream:** Added gradually while the processor runs — the cream's fat emulsifies with the protein to produce a mousse. Too much cream and the mixture becomes too soft to hold shape; too little and the quenelle is dense. - **The poaching:** Shaped into ovals using two wet spoons — slid into barely simmering salted water. The water must never boil — boiling causes the delicate mousse to disintegrate. - **The doneness:** 8–10 minutes, turning once — the quenelles float and firm when poached through. They are done when they feel firm but yielding when pressed. - **Sauce Nantua:** The classic accompaniment — a cream sauce with crawfish butter (or crayfish tail butter).
France: The Cookbook