Sopa Tarasca (Michoacán — Pureed Black Bean Soup, Fried Tortilla)
Michoacán, western Mexico — named for the P'urhépecha (Tarascan) people of Lake Pátzcuaro; a staple of Patzcuaro and Morelia restaurant menus
Sopa Tarasca is the iconic soup of Michoacán's P'urhépecha (Tarascan) people — a richly textured, smooth black bean soup enriched with tomato, dried chilli, and cream, then finished with fried tortilla strips, crumbled cheese, and a drizzle of crema. It is humble in its ingredients but technically demanding in its execution, and the interplay of smooth, creamy soup against crunchy, rich garnishes makes it one of the most satisfying soups in the Mexican repertoire.
The soup begins with fully cooked black beans — either from scratch with epazote and garlic, or from a well-seasoned pot. The beans are blended with some of their cooking liquid until completely smooth, then strained through a medium sieve to remove skins. This double-process (blending and straining) produces a soup of remarkable silkiness that is distinct from the texture of simply blended beans.
A sofrito of tomatoes, onion, garlic, and either ancho or guajillo chilli is charred on a dry comal, then blended and fried in lard in the soup pot. The strained bean puree is added to the sofrito, thinned with bean cooking liquid or chicken stock to the desired consistency, and simmered for 20 minutes. At this point, heavy cream and a small amount of crema are stirred in — the dairy enrichment is a post-Conquest addition that softens the bean's slight astringency.
The garnish is essential and assembled at the table. Corn tortillas, cut into thin strips, are fried in lard until completely crisp. Queso añejo (aged dried cheese) is crumbled over the top. A spiral of sour cream is applied with a squeeze bottle for presentation. Pasilla or ancho chilli, briefly fried until crisp, crumbles over the surface.
The soup must be served very hot so the cream swirl is visible as contrast against the near-black bean soup before the diner stirs it in.