Southern · Vietnam Techniques

Bánh xèo (sizzling cake) is Vietnam's crispy crepe — a turmeric-yellow rice flour batter poured into a screaming-hot oiled pan, filled with pork belly, shrimp, bean sprouts, and green onion, then folded in half when the exterior is fully crispy. Eaten by tearing pieces off, wrapping in lettuce with fresh herbs, and dipping in nuoc cham. The sound (xèo — sizzle) when the batter hits the pan is the dish's name.

Bò lúc lắc (shaking beef) is Vietnam's most festive beef dish — cubes of beef tenderloin or sirloin marinated briefly in soy, oyster sauce, garlic, and sugar, then cooked at extreme heat in a wok until the outside is deeply charred and the inside is medium-rare. The 'shaking' refers to the vigorous wok technique — the pan is shaken or tossed to develop char on all surfaces in 3-4 minutes total. Served on a bed of watercress, sliced tomato, and red onion rings, with a lime-salt-pepper dipping sauce.

Canh chua (sour soup) is a Southern Vietnamese soup of sweet-sour tamarind broth with fish (catfish or snakehead), pineapple, tomato, okra, elephant ear taro stem, and bean sprouts. The defining character is the simultaneous sweet-sour-savoury balance — the tamarind provides the sour note, sugar and pineapple provide sweetness, fish sauce provides the salinity, and the freshwater fish provides the protein. This is the home cooking of the Mekong Delta.

Gỏi cuốn (fresh spring rolls, not fried) are rice paper rolls filled with pork, shrimp, rice vermicelli, lettuce, mint, and bean sprouts, served with hoisin-peanut dipping sauce. The rice paper (bánh tráng) must be soaked correctly — pliable but not soft — and the rolls must be tight enough to hold their shape but not so tight the rice paper tears. These are fresh, light, and eaten immediately after rolling.

Goi cuon — Vietnamese fresh spring rolls — are made throughout the year but are particularly associated with Tet and celebratory meals. Unlike the fried spring roll, goi cuon are assembled fresh at the table — rice paper wrappers softened in water, filled with shrimp, pork, rice vermicelli, lettuce, fresh herbs (mint, coriander, perilla), and cucumber, then rolled into a translucent cylinder that reveals the colourful filling through the wrapper. The preparation is simultaneously simple and technically precise: the rice paper must be softened just enough (too short and it cracks; too long and it tears), the filling must be arranged in the correct order and proportion (the shrimp along the transparent wrapper side for visual presentation), and the roll must be sealed tightly enough to hold its shape when cut. For Tet, the table preparation of goi cuon together is both a practical way to feed a crowd and a social ritual.